Any trip to Fayette County would necessitate spending a day in downtown Vandalia doing a “walk-about” to check out a few of Abraham Lincoln’s haunts when he served in the Illinois legislature in the early 1800’s, when this city was the state capitol.
After spending a day on foot, it’s time to get in your car and cruise to some of Fayette County’s smaller communities and rural attractions.
A plethora of sites can be seen in a 110 mile drive ranging from the Kaskaskia River to a state park to exotic animals to Native Indian craftwork to Mennonite businesses. It will a take full day!
1. Kaskaskia River – Vandalia
Interstate 70, US Hwy 40, and US Hwy 51 all cross the Kaskaskia River just east of Vandalia. The river is and has always been an important element in Fayette County’s history. I recall how much I loved the 1992 movie, “A River Runs Through It”. That thought explains Fayette County and its relationship to the Kaskaskia River. Without the existence of the river, the county’s story might have been drastically different. In fact, Vandalia was chosen as the location for the state capitol from 1819-1839 partially because it was on the banks of the river.
The Kaskaskia runs for 292 miles across south central Illinois before draining into the Mississippi River. Along the way, Fayette County contains about 30 miles of its meandering waters that lie between two of Illinois’ largest man-made lakes: Lake Shelbyville to the north and Carlyle Lake to the south.
The bottom lands created by the river give Fayette County some of the best farmland in the Midwest, but its flooding makes farming here fraught with risk. The two dams created in the mid-20th century were built to minimize the dangers of flooding, while also providing some recreational use.
At a boat ramp just south of the Hwy 40 & 51 bridge in Vandalia (about two blocks from the state Capitol), it looks like you could easily skip a stone across the river during the dry seasons, but let the rains come and it can widen to nearly a mile at some points. That unpredictability made the construction of The National Road particularly significant, as settlers had to “ford” or ferry across the river prior to roads and bridges being built to conquer it.
We’ll flirt with the river all day today, but let’s head north on IL Hwy 51 from Vandalia to begin our day’s adventure.
2. Ramsey Train Museum – Ramsey
Heading north on IL Hwy 51 for about 10 miles will take you to the middle of Ramsey, near where the Illinois Central Railroad intersected with the Nickel Plate Road until the 1950’s. The Nickel Plate Illinois Central Interlocking Tower, a box car, and a Nickel Plate bay window caboose stand as a testament of bygone days when the intersecting railroads made Ramsey a prosperous hub. The three structures comprised a railroad museum for several years, until its closure in 2016, and it is still well-kept, even if no longer maintaining open hours. Visit www.vandaliaillinois.com for more information.
3. Ramsey Lake State Park – rural Ramsey
The Ramsey Lake State Recreation Area is a mile north of the village of Ramsey and a mile west of US Hwy 51. The park’s 1,980 acres of rolling hills are covered with mature oak trees and is a great place for campers to relax or burn off energy, whichever they choose. Activities available include: boating (trolling motors only), camping (over 100 sites), equestrian trails, fishing, hiking, hunting, picnicking, metal detecting and snowmobiling. Shelters are also available for reservation.
The initial park land purchase was in 1947 and included what was then known as the “Old Fox Chase Grounds” because of its previous use by fox and coon hunters. Over time it has been the site of a wide variety of events including: dog trials, dances, carnivals and machinery displays.
4. Ramsey Lake Golf Course – rural Ramsey
Golfers will want to pause for a “round” at the Ramsey Lake Golf Course, which is located a mile east of the State Park. Here you can play a quick nine holes of golf on a fairly flat and relatively short course (2,750 yards; par 35; 103-slope rating), that is perfect for novices yet fun for the pros among you. It opened in 1965 and is open year around when practical. Gaming has been added to expand the clubhouse’s usefulness into the winter months.
5. Dressor Prairie Solar Farm – rural Ramsey
Head east from Ramsey about five miles on 2800N and you will get a glimpse into the future of “clean” energy at the Dressor Prairie Solar Farm. Be sure to follow the signs. Seven hundred acres of flat farm ground have been covered with solar panels to assist in the nation-wide move away from dependency on fossil fuels.
If you have never seen a facility like the Dressor Prairie Solar Farm, it is a “must see” attraction. Seeing the enormity of it makes me wonder what we will do if ever there is a food shortage and we need those acres back in production. Maybe we can “jack up” the panels and farm beneath them. Oh well, it’s just a thought.
6. Wren Bridge‘s Cross and Spring – Carson Township
A few miles further east on 2800N, you will turn south on 1500E and approach a bridge over the Kaskaskia River. Just a few feet before the bridge you will see a 40’ tall cross on a road that veers off to the right. That road used to take you to Wren Bridge, which was the means of crossing the river from 1898 on. Today, only the remnants of the bridge’s footings remain. A local told me that much of what he learned growing up involved time spent hanging out at the old bridge. I think there was a story, but I did not pursue it for the sake of time.
While at the bridge, two other unusual things will gain your attention: the cross and a spring flowing with fresh water. The cross, which was built in 2005, has memorial plaques attached to its base honoring many of the previous inhabitants of Carson Township and the surrounding area. The spring, meanwhile, has a water wheel and has been plumbed for ease of access and it has been tested to insure safe consumption. I watched as folks came from far and wide just to fill containers with its super fresh water.
7. Buckstop Archery – rural Brownstown
Since long before Illinois became a state, hunting and archery were important to survival in this area and although not a necessity of life now, archers can get their “fix” at Buckstop Archery, which is nestled in the country south of Brownstown. Just for fun, you could go cross-country from Ramsey to Brownstown, or if you are less adventurous, just return to Vandalia and head east on IL. Hwy 40.
With trained and experienced bow technicians on hand, competitive pricing, and both indoor and outdoor shooting ranges, Buckstop is the most complete facility for bow hunters in this region.
Archers can find inspiration for their future conquests amongst the 50 or so stuffed animals displayed in the store. Many of them obtained on legal hunts in Africa and nearly all of whom were killed by bow and arrow. Dare I say it’s like a museum of exotic animals?
8. Fayette County Fairgrounds and Speedway – Brownstown
Returning to Brownstown, the Fayette County Fairgrounds bustle with activity not only during the one-week county fair each summer, but also on Saturday nights, when the adjoining Fayette County Speedway attracts local stock car racers. Since 1952, locals have tested their driving skills in seven divisions during a season that runs from March until October.
9. Driftstone Pueblo – St. Elmo
Return to US Hwy 40 and head east for about six miles until you reach St. Elmo and then take the short connecting road to I-70. At that exit, you will find Driftstone Pueblo, one of the more unusual stores along the interstate in the Midwest with 8,400 square feet of Native American products.
You might expect to find a showroom filled with unique gold jewelry, gems, crystals, pottery, rocks and moccasins in Great Plains or farther west. However, Driftstone’s owners are proud to be resellers of items crafted on Native American reservations. In addition to their retail side, Driftstone offers a wholesale business side too, as they supply retailers located further east.
10. Dutch Prairie Mennonite Shops – west of St. Peter
From St. Elmo, take county road 2100 south over I-70 and continue for eight miles to the village of St. Peter. Turn west onto 900 N and drive a few miles into the Kaskaskia and Wilberton township area of Fayette County. You will find a variety of businesses in this area called the Dutch Prairie Mennonite Shops, including a country store, several repair shops, greenhouses, produce and baked goods sellers, bee equipment makers and even a blacksmith. Watch out for horses and buggies, they are not moving at your speed.
11. Country Store and Restaurant – east of Augsburg
Five miles west of St. Peter on 900N, you will find the Country Store and Restaurant on the north side of the road. Baked goods are their specialty and, besides some unusual grocery items, it’s also a great place to eat. Check ahead to be sure they will be cooking at the time you are arriving. Be aware that closing time is usually 4:00 p.m.
12. Zimmerman’s Greenhouse – north of Augsburg
An annual rite of spring around our house is a trip to Zimmerman’s Greenhouse to buy the first plants of spring. They can be found a couple of miles north off of 900N. Just watch for the signs. That trip is usually followed by more visits throughout their growing season.
My wife loves the owner’s friendliness, prices, large variety of annuals and perennials, pre-assembled hanging baskets and pots, and the quality of their products. What more can be said?
13. Cox Bridge and Boat Ramp – west of Vernon
At the junction of 400N and 300E in Pope Township, four and a half miles west of the village of Vernon, you will find the former location of a throw-back structure known as the Cox Bridge shown above in the final moments of its demolition.
But the good news is, the bridge is scheduled to be rebuilt in 2022. It will allow public access on foot and also allow Illinois Department of Natural Resources personnel to cross by truck.
Built in 1911, this pin-connected, 7-panel Pratt through truss bridge was marked for demolished in September 2021. The 110 year-old structure stood for decades as a testament to the “by-gone times” when this style of bridge was widely used to cross rivers in Illinois. Eventually even foot traffic was denied access to what had become a rickety “bridge to nowhere”.
14. Carlyle Lake and Wildlife Management Area – southern Fayette County
Although most of Carlyle Lake’s 25,000 acres lie in Clinton County, a small portion is in Fayette County. From Vernon travel north on US Hwy 51 to Shobonier; turn west onto 900N and drive seven miles to Pittsburg. Along the way, you will travel parallel to the Kaskaskia River much of the time and eventually cross it.
Along this route, look for signs pointing you south to several parking lots and observation points from which to watch the waterfowl that inhabit the northern-most end of Carlyle Lake and its back waters. The more adventurous may want to hike the levees into the interior of the 9,500-acre wildlife habitat of the Carlyle Lake Wildlife Management Area.
Campers might be interested to know there are five developed campgrounds with over 300 campsites available around the lake.
15. Rocky Road Dairy – rural Mulberry Grove
From the wildlife area, head northwest five miles and you will find a recent addition to the agribusiness community: the Rocky Road Dairy. Although the Snow family has operated a dairy for many years, they now offer “on-farm” retail sales of their organic milk and related products that come from their herd of Registered Brown Swiss dairy cows.
Retailing on the farm, wholesaling to other retailers, and aggressively selling at farmer’s markets throughout Southern Illinois are but a few of the major changes they have made in their operation over the years. They converted to 100% grass feeding their cows and took the steps to have their acres certified as “organic” in 2019. Check with them about their hours, but I think you will find them very accommodating to meet your schedule.
I’m guessing by the time you complete today’s 110-mile circuitous route and end up back in Vandalia, you may be ready for a meal and a bed. There are several fine locally owned restaurants scattered across the city’s landscape which specialize in a wide variety of cuisines from steaks to Mexican to Italian. Plus there are several motels on the north side close to the town’s two Interstate 70 exits.
